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Ruben & Family | October 2023

A dream trip through Patagonia

Our trip to Patagonia was actually supposed to take place in 2021, but coronavirus put a spanner in the works. At the end of 2022, we started planning our trip, booked flights and accommodation and tried to customize our plans as much as possible. With the support of Aventura Austral, our travel package was given the finishing touches. The adventure could begin, a long dream was about to become reality.

Buenos Aires, our first stop, with its up-and-coming Palermo district, welcomed us with summery temperatures. The hotel booked by Christian was the ideal starting point for various explorations in the city, such as the Catedral Metropolitana, Plaza de Mayo with Casa Rosada or the San Telmo market (tango), but also for feasting in the Cafe Tortoni, which is well worth seeing ... Our excursions took us through a colorful city, through avenues of old trees. We saw monumental buildings and met mostly lively, friendly people.

San Carlos de Bariloche, the gateway to the Patagonian dream landscape, was our next stop. Hikes to Cerro Otto, towards Refugio Frey and with the chairlift to Cerro Campanario offered us magnificent scenery. Bright sunshine, snowstorms and an icy wind in succession gave us an impression of the dynamic Patagonian weather.
The absolute highlight was the joint hike with Marina through the Parque Municipal, where she introduced us to interesting flora and fauna. The ascent to Cerro Llao-Llao led by Christian gave us a magnificent view of the lake and mountain region around Lake Nahuel Huapi. The final stop at the Patagonia brewery was a must.

El Chalten, the small mountain village in Patagonia, was our next destination. The journey alone in a double-decker bus with seats at the glass front was a pleasure. In front of us was the Andes mountain range with the majestic Fitz Roy, with guanacos, nandus and flying condors close to the road.
We chose the hike to the Mirador de los Condores & Aguilas suggested by Christian as an introduction. An incredible number of flying condors and the view of Lago Viedma with its floating icebergs completed our introduction to the hiking paradise of El Chalten.
The very next day, in glorious sunshine, the hike to Laguna de los Tres was on the agenda with 1000 meters of altitude, which was a bit of a challenge for us seniors, Veronika and Günter. When we reached our destination, Ruben's comment about seeing a mirage filled us both with pride. Unfortunately, the weather had deteriorated and the Fitz Roy could only be glimpsed behind a wall of clouds. After a successful day, we treated ourselves to an excellent meal at the Resteraunt Parilla La Oveja Negra. The next day, we relaxed at the nearby Chorillo del Salto waterfall. Unfortunately, we had to abandon the hike to Laguna Cerro Torre early due to time constraints.
The charming El Chalten with its variety of hiking options, fantastic nature and the towering Fitz Roy will remain unforgettable.

El Calafate was the starting point for further Patagonia highlights. As soon as we arrived, we were able to observe numerous birds such as flamingos, black-necked swans, magellan geese, ibises and other species in the Laguna Nimez nature reserve. In the American-style city of El Calafate, we bought our first souvenirs and postcards.

The Perito Moreno Glacier spoiled us with fantastic weather, calving glaciers and Judith and Ruben with whiskey on glacier ice. During the guided day tour with our guide Isabella, we learned extensive and impressive information about Los Glaciares National Park. The boat trip up to the glacier wall and the hike on the glacier were exciting and indescribably beautiful.

The Estancia Nibepo Aike was another attraction on our trip. Riding with Juani through the untouched national park and the view of various glaciers and mountain landscapes was a dream. Ruben had chosen a good place for his first ride and a good horse. But the walk along Lago Roca, with a silence you could hear, was also deeply memorable. The vastness of the land fills the visitor with an unknown freedom and informality.

In Puerto Natales, we visited Le Mouton Vert and Paulina Escobar, who is well-known from German TV. Judith and Ruben seized the opportunity and stocked up on handmade clothes. At Café Colona, Veronika met a former student from Hesse, as if from heaven. The quote "Adopte el ritmo de la naturaleza, su secreto es la paciencia" by Ralph W. Ermerson accompanied us from then on. We picked up our off-road rental car for our next stop, the Torres del Paine National Park.

The Parque Nacional Torres del Paine and the cabana were the absolute highlight of our adventure. Trails where nobody goes, wild horses, guanacos, snow then pure sun, the pumas up close, El Pajero from our guide Kevin as a close-up. Unfortunately, we only saw him through the telescope - a good telescope is worthwhile for this trip. Then the challenging hike to the Mirador Base Las Torres. A profoundly contrasting sight, the blue lagoon with the three granite towers in the background. An adventurous approach to the cabana, which Ruben and Judith mastered through the mud holes without getting stuck, the fire in the oven, the stars and the band of the Milky Way from the bed, the darkness, the silence ..., all incredible, but it made us unspeakably happy!!!!

Punta Arenas, still full of impressions, we headed for our next stop. On Isla Magdalena in the Strait of Magellan, we were greeted by trusting penguins crossing the path and busily building nests in the sunshine. They warmed our hearts in the icy winds. Isla Marta was home to an impressive colony of sea lions that made themselves loudly heard. Finally, the colorful city gave us a warm day without wind, which we used for a hike to the cemetery, a park with old trees and beautiful tree-lined avenues. A relaxing stroll along Magellan Street rounded off this eventful day.

Ushuaia, the last destination of an extraordinary journey. Our hostel gave us a spectacular view of the Beagle Channel, the harbor and the city. The three-hour trip by catamaran across the Beagle Channel to Lighthouse Island with countless cormorants, seagulls and sea lions up close was indescribably beautiful. We rented a car to explore Tierra del Fuego National Park. In bright sunshine, we hiked to the Mirador Bahía Lapataia, where we had a breathtaking view of the Beagle Channel. We were amazed by the lush vegetation, moors, primeval forests and beaver lodges. On the way back we visited
Laguna Negra and Laguna Verde on the way back rounded off our nature experience.
We enjoyed a delicious dinner at the Reinamora restaurant at Los Cauquenes Resort with a magnificent view of the Beagle Channel.

Buenos Aires, the pulsating metropolis, in contrast to the Patagonian expanse with its feeling of freedom and informality. In summer temperatures, we visited the Japanese garden and took a cab to La Boca. A short tour and a photo with the figure of Messi had to suffice, as time was already running out. We took an Uber to get us to the chic harbor district of Puerto Madero. At the CUCINA D'ONORE restaurant, we ordered typical local dishes one last time and enjoyed a delicious Malbec Vino Tinto.

Conclusion:
Patagonia, an extraordinary country full of magic, with overwhelming endless expanses and magnificent nature, has cast a spell over us forever. Our expectations were exceeded by far. We were very impressed by our encounters with the consistently friendly, cheerful but also thoughtful people in Argentina and Chile. They deserve a better future in their great countries. Four unforgettable weeks for Judith, Ruben, Veronika and Günter - a gift that will last forever. It was with great sadness that we boarded our flight home.
Nos vemos pronto Argentina y Chile!

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Special thanks go to Aventura Austral, Marina and Christian, for their active support in making our eventful trip a reality. Christian impressed us with his comprehensive presentation and attention to detail right from the travel preparations. Our first video conference was relaxed and informal.
Aventura Austral organized great accommodation with excellent breakfasts for us in Buenos Aires, Bariloche and on the Estancia Nibepo Aike. The logistics, such as transfers from the airport to the accommodation and vice versa, the transfers to the Perito Moreno Glacier with a guide and to the estancia, the various bus trips and the boat trips were also handled to our complete satisfaction.
In Bariloche, Christian took us to the starting points of the various hikes in his Range Rover. Special thanks again for this.
Marina and Christian provided us with important information every day, except in Torres del Paine, in an organized signal group. Be it the weather (temperature, wind strength), cultural tips, hiking suggestions, safety advice, but last but not least the culinary suggestions, in short important insider knowledge that we were very happy to make use of.  
We would plan our trip to South America with Aventura Austral again at any time.

Judith, Ruben, Veronika & Günter from Germany

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